Thursday, 19 February 2015

Love Bites & The Fat Duck: Part One


  • On the train journey down to Maidenhead around 6pm on Friday 21st November, I just couldn't believe it. I was in a carriage full of London commuters on their various journeys home, and I was about to begin the culinary experience of my lifetime. My stomach twirled in excitement and heart skipped with delight about what was to come. I had actually done it, I'd managed to get a booking at one of the most talked about restaurants in the world! Not only that, but I'd managed to do so only two weeks in advance! This is a restaurant in which I'd been wanting to go to ever since I arrived in the UK almost four years ago, and never once had an opportunity to book. It wasn't for the lack of trying, but availability in this 40 seated restaurant is so scarce that even the 'who's who' find it hard to get in. So, after two weeks of anticipation, a forty minute train journey and a short taxi ride later my Fat Duck experience was about to begin.

    The Fat Duck restaurant is located in a beautiful little village called Bray, in Berkshire, South West of London. It is owned by the world renowned British Chef Heston Blumenthal. Heston is known for pushing the boundaries between imagination, experience and molecular gastronomy with food. His dishes are years in the making and can be so intricate but simple at the same time making his dining experiences some of the most creative in the world.

    We arrived for our 7pm reservation a little under 15 minutes early and were greeted by a gentleman at the entrance advising us the restaurant was not in fact open yet and kindly suggested we went for a drink at The Hinds Head, down the road. Adam and I had actually been to this quaint village pub (also owned by Heston Blumenthal) a year or two before so were quite happy to stop by again for a beverage. Adam had actually starved himself most of the day in anticipation for the evenings events so he scoffed down some chorizo flavoured crisps while I sipped on a gracefully flavoured gin and tonic infused with apple slices. By the time we had finished our pre dinner drink and crisps it turned out we were actually 15 minutes late for our booking, not to worry though - they were expecting us and we were once again pleasantly greeted and seated at our table.

    Super excited waiting at the Hinds Head
    The restaurant was already a hive of activity as we were one of the last to be seated. We were quickly greeted by one of the Sommeliers who exuded a bit of frivolousness and queried whether we would like to start the evening with a glass of champagne? Perhaps even pink champagne? We promptly decided that this was a fantastic idea and he presented Adam with an extremely large leather-bound book containing the largest wine list I had ever seen. So with a peruse of the book and £46 pounds later, we were presented with two energetically bubbling glasses of pink champagne, and were eagerly awaiting our first course.


    A rather expensive glass of pink champagne

    Our first taste at The Fat Duck consisted of a mouthful of aerated beetroot filled with horseradish cream, quite like a savoury macaroon. This morsel dissolved daintily in my mouth producing a faint beetroot taste and a shot of nose-clearing horseradish. How delightful! I loved how it was placed on such a contrasting plate making it even more appealing.




    NITRO POACHED APERITIFS 
    Vodka and Lime Sour, Gin and Tonic, Tequila and Grapefruit
    A side table was placed alongside our table with a selection of fruit and canisters. I chose Gin and Tonic and Adam Tequila and Grapefruit. The waiter then proceeded to ooze a creamy white moose-like substance out of the canisters in the shape of a small lime. She then swirled it around a bowl of dry ice a few times with a teaspoon before sealing the outside with a zap of a flame. We were told to quickly pop these into our mouths, which resulted in an explosion of our chosen flavour evaporating into what seemed like a sheer moisture to swallow down.













    RED CABBAGE GAZPACHO
    Pommery Grain Mustard Ice Cream
    This dish was a small amount of beautifully purple, chilled cabbage soup, It was a fine liquid which was turning creamy by the mustard flavoured ice cream. It was refreshing and the flavour was punchy.


    JELLY OF QUAIL, CRAYFISH CREAM
    Oak Moss and Truffle Toast
     Presented with two plastic film boxes atop a wooden box filled with fake grass, we were then left pondering this dish. The waiter then reappeared with two small dishes - one bowl of chicken liver parfait resting in what was actually solid crayfish cream with jelly underneath, and a wooden board of truffle covered toast. Liquid nitrogen was then poured into the wooden box producing an enchanting mist which blanketed the table and enticed our nostrils with woodland aromas. We let the jelly of quail film dissolve on our tongues before dipping into the parfait and complimenting with the toast. A very entertaining and magical dish.






    SNAIL PORRIDGE
    Iberico Bellota Ham, Shaved Fennel
    The infamous Snail Porridge. I had heard and read a lot about this dish and I was most intrigued. If you just read the name you can tell it doesn’t appeal to most! However, I have to say this was one of my favourite dishes for taste in the fourteen courses. It is literally what it is - green coloured, porridge oats, snails and a dollop of shaved fennel creating an endearing bowlful of absolute deliciousness. We were given a reasonable sized bowl of green gloopy liquid, and yes it looks like porridge and has the texture of porridge. The flavour of this dish was of intense garlic and parsley had almost a hearty feel to it. The snails were perfectly chewy and well-balanced with the fresh shavings of fennel. It was definitely not as scary as you might think - another bowl please!


    SCALLOP - Birch Syrup, Bergamot, Coral Royale 
    ROAST FOIE GRAS - Barberry, Confit Kombu and Crab Biscuit
    There were actually two dishes served at this point in the sitting. At the beginning we were asked if we wanted to try what we could call a 'special of the day' that they encouraged you to have. It was at this point that they suggested that Adam and I got one dish each and shared - right up my alley! The scallop was sliced and bedded on a seaweed texture-like film with hints of flavour from the bergamot and birch syrup. It was a delicate and subtle dish that didn't really hit the spot for me. The foie gras on the other hand was delightfully rich in flavour and accompanied by a crunchy crab biscuit and barberry confit. The flavours danced in my mouth as I tried to savour every minute of this tasty dish.

    Scallop dish
    Foie gras dish

    MAD HATTER'S TEA PARTY (c.1892)
    Mock Turtle Soup, Pocket Watch and Toast Sandwich
    Inspired by Heston’s infatuation with childhood memories and a play on the Alice in Wonderland theme, this dish was the quirkiest of the fourteen courses. We were given two cards with Alice in Wonderland text and a bookmark to prepare us for the course. Two plates masquerading as top hats eccentrically teetering on top of each other and decorated with four ‘toast’ club sandwiches were placed in the centre of the table. The sandwiches, literally 'toast' sandwiches were filled with subtle hints of cucumber and truffle cream, providing  a crunchy accompaniment to the 'soup'. 

    A ‘pocket-watch’ encased in gold leaf foil was placed into a teapot of hot water and swirled to magically dissolve into a broth. We then poured it into a teacup comprising of a delicate mix of enoki mushrooms, ham hock, turnips and herbs and of course a ‘mock’ egg. It looked like an quirky island and tasted of different textures - the chewiness of the ham hock and creaminess of the 'egg' was creatively offset with the crunchy ‘toast’ed sandwiches. It was certainly one of the most fun dishes of the 14 courses!



    Stay tuned for Part 2 of Love Bites Fat Duck experience, I promise you won't have to wait so long next time!!