Love Bites Abroad : Berlin

Adam and I took a 3 night trip to Berlin in between Christmas and New Years in 2013. We arrived early Boxing Day to an unexpectedly extremely quiet city. We were staying in the newer shopping district end of the Kurfürstendamm. Working in the retail industry myself, one would expect the biggest shopping street in Berlin to be a buzzing hive of activity on the busiest shopping day of the year, yet literally none of the shops were open nor were they showing signs that they were going to be open at all. 

We had stayed at my English family's house for Christmas and luckily enough one of my cousins had been to Berlin a couple of weeks before us and had kept a list of restaurant 'must-go-to's' provided by his hotel. We studied the list in anticipation and he suggested two in particular if we could get into them on short notice. These were The Grill Royal, an on-trend, upmarket seafood and steak house and Cantina, a pan-asian fusion, tapas style bar. We were lucky enough to get a reservation at both through our fantastic concierge at our hotel, for the second and third nights of our stay. He also recommended a restaurant called Keno for our first night which we happily took his advice for dinner that evening.

For lunch we strolled around the Christmas markets close to our hotel and our first taste of Germany happened to be traditional currywurst sausage. A kransky-style sausage with a spicy curry sauce and a sprinkling of curry powder. As we were rather hungry we devoured this fast but I can't say I would be rushing back to try another one as it tasted very processed and fake. We also treated ourselves to some deep fried garlic potato crisps which were so oily our fingers were smothered with grease instantly. They were also so garlicky after a couple of crisps our mouths were stained with the taste, let alone our breath, any lurking vampires would have been killed instantly.

Garlic Crisps

Currywurst Sausages

So Restaurant Keno was our dinner option for our first night - a traditional German restaurant which was close to our hotel.  As Boxing Day is still part of the Christmas celebrations in Germany they still had a Christmas set menu available as well as the a la carte. Feeling festive I chose the Christmas menu of mushroom soup, and roast duck with braised cabbage, potato dumplings and cranberry sauce, finished with a creme brûlée.  The mushroom soup was full of flavour and had a delicious garnish of parma ham. This infused the soup with flavour and melted in my mouth. Definitely something I will include when I next make a mushroom soup! The duck was delicious with the cabbage and the skin cooked to perfect crispiness, the potatoes were a bit stodgy for my liking. Adam devoured a vegetable soup, which was rather salty but had plenty of veges and a clear broth. He then ate veal meatballs with mashed potato in a white wine caper sauce. The sauce was really rich but complimented the meatballs well. We had great attentive service at Restaurant Keno and was a good way to kick off our Berlin trip.

Vegetable Soup

Mushroom Soup with Parma Ham

Veal Meatballs 

Roast Duck, Braised Cabbage and Potato Dumplings

Creme Brûlée

Our next dinner treat was Grill Royal. This high-end grill restaurant is located on the River Spree on Fredickstrzae. We we're greeted by the maitre'd and our coats were taken. My immediate thoughts were this is an refined chic grill restaurant with a vibrant atmosphere and high end diners. There were an odd mix of sculptures, artefacts and paintings adorning the dining room, surrounding the snug leather booths and mint condition white table cloths. The restaurant was oozing sophistication and encouraged people watching. We were initially seated next to a well dressed couple and their small child which seemed an odd mix with this type of restaurant. They left early and were replaced by two almost identical blonde barbie dolls who looked like they had never lifted a finger to work in their lives. 

The menu consisted of traditional grill style food, steaks and lobsters.  We settled for a starter each I had the a white fish soup, which consisted of a light frothy white wine broth with poached salmon and a white fish I can't quite remember, it was a sensational experience, the fish and the broth were delicate with a kick of white wine intensity. Adam devoured some snails, smothered in a thick garlic butter sauce which made the slimy experience of eating them much more appealing, they were some of the best snails I have eaten. For our mains I decided with a local Bavarian fillet, and Adam went for the American Entrecôte fillet. We shared four sides, which was quite a feast for two of us! We settled with fried broccoli and cauliflower in chilli and garlic, a smooth potato mash, coleslaw and something I wouldn't normally choose but must have been continuing with the festive spirit - some succulent sautéed brussels sprouts with bacon.

Fish Soup

Snails

I have to say my medium-rare Bavarian fillet was one of the best pieces of steak I have ever had. It was oozing tenderness, full of flavour and melted in my mouth. It was perfectly cooked and along with the mash and the red wine jus it was a masterpiece of a meal. Adams Entrecôte was not in the same league as mine, although his steak was larger than mine, it was not as tender and involved a few more chews. We settled on a sticky toffee pudding and a custard tart for dessert. Neither was anything to write home about and I'm even surprised we managed to fit it in! 

On our final night we made our way to Cantina in the trendy area of Mitte for some 'Fine Asian and Ibero-American cuisine.' Part of the experience is actually finding Cantina which is located at the bar of the trendy cocktail bar Tausend. Our taxi kindly dropped us outside a wooden door underneath what was a railway arch. We knocked politely, waited a couple of minutes and was greeted by the Maitre'd who asked if we had a reservation and under which name. We advised our details and then had the door shut on us, only to be greeted another minute later by the same lady who confirmed our booking with a big smile and invited us in. The bar had a very confident - trendy air to it, the decor was dark but lit with a huge circular eye-like sculpture at one end of the room. I had the feeling you kind of had to be in the know about this place, with the secret door, and sleek 'coolness' of the staff, it was almost a little intimidating. We were taken through the bar and led into a small tunnel into Cantina, a small room with limited seating. Our reservation was for 6pm and we could only get a seat at the bar, which actually turned out to be a fantastic experience as we were able to watch the chefs work straight in front of us.

The service was very suave, tight jeans and pony tails were the attire of most of the waiters. We drank cocktails and dined on some of the most delicious food, the whole experience of Cantina was a real treat!  The head chef was directly in front of us preparing sushi, sashimi, and ceviche. We spotted some male Latino-looking diners on the other side of the bar devouring the ceviche and asking for more of the sauce after they had finished, then smacking their lips in desire. This along with another female couple who asked to see the Head Chef to thank him for the ceviche thoroughly promoted our decision to get this immediately.  We started with some Spanish pimentos de pardons (grilled peppers) - one of my favourite Spanish tapas. These were not as good as expected, slightly overcooked and not enough flavour so we quickly moved on to our next dish satay chicken and lime skewers with a chilli, coriander and red onion garnish, these were moist and succulent pieces of meat with a a delightful kick. We devoured our ceviche in absolute pleasure, the tender calamari, squid, and raw fish pieces, enveloped in the juiciest sweet and sour sauce, and decorated with chilli, coriander, red onion and corn was a sensational seafood experience.

Pimentos de Padrons

Chicken Satay Skewers

Ceviche

The dining experience even got better after this, our main dish to share was a white tuna with foie gras on a spinach risotto. This main dish was heavenly. Drizzled in a pesto oil and garnished with fresh herbs every mouthful melted in your mouth and the spinach risotto was so delicious I have vowed to attempt to re-create this in the Love Bites Kitchen!  The tuna was a moist mouthful of goodness and complimented the dish well. We finished on sushi and sashimi that was prepared and handed to us by the Head Chef right in front of us. The small bites were so fresh and delicate it was the perfect end to our meal and by no way could we squeeze in dessert!

Tuna Foie Gras and Spinach Risotto

Sashimi

Sushi and Sashimi

Cantina was the perfect way to end our culinary Berlin experience. We had dined on traditional German food, the most delectable steaks, and a fresh and intriguing Asian-fusion food. We had spent a lot, feed ourselves to our hearts content and drank ourselves silly. Berlin was a wicked experience through and through. I can't wait to go back to try out even more of the culinary treasures this place has to offer!